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05/01/2011
AVA Spotlight: Santa Cruz Mountains
It’s hard to believe that one of California’s most breathtaking and rural wine regions is only a stone’s throw from Silicon Valley and San Francisco. Yet just minutes (and a world) away from the epicenter of microchips and high technology companies is the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation, stretching from Woodside to Watsonville, Los Gatos to Santa Cruz, and defined by small, family-owned vineyards and wineries (over 70!) dotting tree-lined mountain roads and perched atop ridges with sweeping views into the valleys and Pacific coastline.
Boasting some of the state’s highest elevation vineyards on ridge tops that reach over 2600 feet, the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation was among the first to be defined by its topography. Recognized as an AVA in 1981, the region roughly follows the fog line along the coast, meaning that all vineyards are at least 400 feet in elevation. The grapes and wine produced in the Santa Cruz Mountains reflect this mountain terrain, as well as the maritime climate resulting from proximity to both the Pacific Ocean and Monterey Bay to the west and San Francisco Bay to the northeast.
Although the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation encompasses some 322,000 acres, less than 1,500 are planted to winegrapes. And while the wines are typically known for their minerality and balanced acidity, complex flavors and ability to age, they also bear the mark of diverse microclimates: warm on the eastern (inland) side where Zinfandel, Cabernet, and Merlot predominate; cooler in the breezy, fog-influenced coastal areas and ridge tops, where varietals such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are more commonly found. Soils throughout the region are variously composed of clay, loam, decomposed rock and limestone.
“Because of the dramatic geography and size of the region we have many microclimates and soil variations, and this allows us to grow a wide variety of winegrapes,” says Mary Lindsay, President of the Viticulture Association of the Santa Cruz Mountains and partner in Muns Vineyard, a 13-acre vineyard planted primarily to Pinot Noir. “With some 200 vineyards stretching nearly 60 miles, there are distinct differences between areas within the region.”
In fact, to better understand the viticultural diversity of the Santa Cruz Mountains, in 2008 Lindsay and a group of viticulture and wine experts conducted an intensive series of tastings of wines made with grapes grown throughout the appellation. The results clearly defined five different sub-regions with distinctive characteristics: Skyline, Summit, Saratoga/Los Gatos, Los Ranchos/the Coastal Hills (above Santa Cruz), and Corralitos/Pleasant Valley. Subsequent blind tastings have confirmed that wines produced from grapes grown in these areas bear the unique signature of the special soils, weather and vegetation found in each of these domains.
“The sub-regions are helpful for understanding what to expect in Santa Cruz Mountain wines,” comments Lindsay. Those interested in the sub-regions and their characteristics can find more information on the Viticulture Association’s website.
While the vineyards and wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains are diverse, one thing they share is a commitment to sustainable winegrowing practices. As well, several vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains have been certified organic and more are seeking to attain that distinction.
“We’ve brought all of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance’s (CSWA) programs to the Santa Cruz Mountains over the past few years, including several self-assessment workshops,” says Lindsay, who notes that sustainable vineyard practices such as cover crops, erosion control and canopy management are now the norm in the region, with growing use of wildlife corridors, integrated pest management and other practices. “The CSWA's support has provided our growers with invaluable educational opportunities, and this strong emphasis has promoted improved farming practices throughout the region.”
Visiting the Santa Cruz Mountain vineyards and wineries can be like a step back in time, and indeed, the area has an illustrious wine history that dates back over 100 years. Many pioneers of California winemaking put down roots in the Santa Cruz area, including Paul Masson, who founded his winery in the 1890’s (now The Mountain Winery), and Martin Ray, an early champion of labeling wines by varietal, who planted Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon above Saratoga in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
“Our history is important because it’s indicative of the world-class wines we can make here,” comments Lindsay. “But what’s really important is the excellent wines we’re producing now.” Judging from what historians and critics say – wine historian Charles Sullivan described the Santa Cruz Mountains as “the finest winegrowing area in the Western Hemisphere” and the San Francisco Chronicle said the region “hosts some of California’s defining wines and vineyards”¹ – the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation is on the right track.
With numerous wine trails and tasting rooms, as well as small towns (Los Gatos, Saratoga, Woodside, Half Moon Bay, Santa Cruz, Soquel, Aptos, Capitola, Watsonville) with excellent hotels, spas and restaurants that offer the finest in California cuisine, the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation is ideal for vacation getaways or weekend trips. Visitors can meet and talk with winemakers and enjoy exploring both the mountain and coastal ambience. For information about visiting the more than 70 wineries in the Santa Cruz Mountain appellation go to www.scmwa.com.
For more information about the winegrape growers and vineyards of the Santa Cruz Mountains, visit www.vascm.org.
¹www.scmwa.com
Photos courtesy of Mary Lindsay
Muns Vineyard, at 2600' elevation in the Santa Cruz Mountains, representing the Summit subregion.
